Patong Night Market, Phuket

Having rounded off a cracking supper at Baan Rim Pa we decided that a wander through the town was in order.  As we did so, we happened upon a fantastic little night market, largely set up for entertainment, in the form of bizarre variations on the standard fairground games of 'skill' and 'luck', complete with life-size stuffed animals as prizes, and food.  And boy, was there a lot of food to be eaten.

Some of it looked fantastic – almost too good to skip, although sadly our dinner had left us stuffed to the gunnels. 

Some of it was perhaps... less appetising. 

And then there was pudding galore.

Patong is a funny old town, really.  It's got great spots – like this market, like Baan Rim Pa.  But it's also got a massively seedy side, complete with the ping pong shows and open-air strip clubs of lore. 

So I guess it's kind of up to you what to make of it.

 - GrubsterBoy -

Baan Rim Pa, Phuket

Having brunched to our hearts' content in downtown Singapore, it was time to take advantage of one of the City's greatest assets: its proximity to so many other equally wonderful places.  For us, it was a weekend away in the Thai island of Phuket.

After an exhausting day sunning ourselves by the pool, sundowners on the beach were called for.  Mojitos and sunsets are natural best friends.  Even if the drink itself could hardly be less local, they were good and hit the spot nicely. 

For dinner we headed to Baan Rim Pa, a picturesque spot perched on the cliffs that surround the shoreline and one of Patong's smartest restaurants.  It has a real old-school charm, almost colonial with its wooden sculpted bar, deep rattan chairs and billowing fans.

But the real star of the show is the food – which is a good thing, given that it's what we'd ventured out for. 

We kicked off proceedings with a couple of starters.  Po pia sod, fresh spring rolls, which turn out to be simply spring rolls as you and I know them but not deep fried (which was something of a relief – it's hardly a healthy cuisine generally).  The somewhat softer shells were a relief, actually.  I love a good Thai spring roll as much as the next man, but these were somehow lighter, easier eating than the average roll, which suited the hot and humid environment well.

We also ate latieng, a mixture of minced prawns and nuts, wrapped up in a spider's web of eggs.  Heaven knows how they make those things, but thank goodness they do – they were yummy. 

For mains, Astrid ordered pla nueng kratiam - a whole steamed fish marinated in garlic and soy.

I had panaeng ped, a duck curry with lychees.  Again, beautifully done – soft, tender duck with a tasty sauce (although my one criticism might be that there wasn't enough sauce – I want it swimming, like a good old red curry). 

Pudding was lemongrass sorbet.  Megayums.

There's no getting away from it: Baan Rim Paa is expensive.  You're paying London prices for the food and drink, which is fine, except that you're in Thailand.  We had eaten the night before at Kampong Kata Hill which is not quite as good but a fraction of the price.  Baan Rim Pa is excellent, and beautiful, but the bill seems out of kilter with the rest of the island.

 - GrubsterBoy -

Level 33, Singapore

First, many apologies for my absence of late.  I have been enjoying my first proper holiday abroad (and first full week off) since June last year, so have been somewhat incommunicado. 

 

A great friend of mine, with whom I trained professionally, moved out to Singapore about six months ago.  Never one to miss the opportunity of a free sofa-crash, I headed out to see what the buzz was all about just as soon as I could.

 

Like all good Singapore tourists, we elected to abandon the city and head out to the Thai island of Phuket for the first weekend.  Singapore is wonderfully positioned in that there is masses to do around it – Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand all within a few hours plane ride... and even further afield, if you like. 

 

But before we jetted off it was essential that we indulge in Singapore's favourite way of starting the weekend: Brunch.  The venue of choice: Level 33, the highest brewery in the world.

 

You read that right, and it's an odd concept, I won’t deny it.  Basically, someone has built a microbrewery into an skyscraper.  The upside of this (and there appears to be no downside, although how you get the malted barley up there is a mystery to me) is the absolutely stunning views.

 

 

Now, I'm not sure, if I'm honest, that I have a great amount of faith in the brews.  Beer is pretty easy to make, it turns out, so there was little risk that they'd be bad – I just didn’t think that they'd be great.  After all, this is a brewery in an office block in the business district of a city not famous for its beer.  It's a marketing gimmick, surely?

 

No, not at all.  Quite the contrary in fact.  The beer making process is one that is clearly taken pretty damned seriously.  Having brought a master brewer over from Germany, the results were impressive.

 

 

To enjoy the early morning views I kicked off proceedings with a glass of their porter, a slightly lighter version of the Irish stout they produce, and a very refreshing, if hearty, drink. 

 

 

We headed inside and sat down at our tables, preparing for a robust breakfast.  We were not disappointed.  My friend had the scrambled eggs and gravadlax.  Beautifully done, and well presented, with cured, seared salmon so tender it melts in your mouth.

 

 

Being a stout Englishman, I went for the full English breakfast.  Because there's nothing like fried bacon and eggs to keep you from missing home.  What came was beautiful – as aesthetically pleasing as it was tasty.  Homemade beans, bloody mary ketchup, real bacon and sausage (rarities outside the UK) and a perfectly done egg in its own wee frying pan.  A real win. 

 

 

And to wash it all down?  Beer, of course – that's the beauty of brunch: drinking with breakfast is totally OK.  The beer I went for was Level 33's weissbier, a wheat beer.  And damned good it was too.

 

If you're hanging about in Singapore, looking for a decent breakfast with fantastic views, you can do a whole lot worse than Level 33. 

 

 - GrubsterBoy -

British Pie Week at the White Swan

Last week was British Pie Week. 

It's true, it actually was.  Sadly, this is one of those festivals that is not nearly well celebrated enough.  In fact, for most average punters, I rather imagine that British Pie Week went by unnoticed.  Fortunately, one of the people to notice it was owners of the White Swan.

It is not without a hint of irony that I note that British Pie Week has come around just as the British weather has started to (finally!) improve.  I have written before about how I believe that pies are best eaten when the weather is cold and miserable (with the exception of cold meat pies, like a pork pie or a game pie, which wants to be eaten and a hot, sunny picnic).  Nevertheless, this Grubster (together with a couple of work mates) steeled itself to venture out during the day to sample the crusts.

And thank heavens we did. 

We were offered a trio of carb-crusted meats to sample: cottage pie, steak, ale and oyster or pigs' cheek pudding.  Josh and I opted, rather unimaginatively, for the steak, ale and oyster.

Now, I'm not especially good with oysters, I won’t lie.  And by 'not especially good' I mean that they make me wretch.  So I was nervous to say the least.  I am very glad I let the joy of the beef win out over the fear of the mollusc, because this was quite simply one of the very best pies I have ever had in my life.  Ever. 

The gravy was rich, silky, smooth.  The oysters, far from the fear I had, added a distinct, saltine, almost maritime, bite to the dish.  It was a thing of absolute beauty – from the presentation through the textures to the taste.  I could not have asked for better.  It even came with a little, garlic crumb-crusted oyster on the side.  It was only because I was in polite company that restrained myself from licking the bowl.

Toby had the pigs' cheek pudding.  Proper suet puddings are few and far between – probably with good reason, given the health consideration – which is a sad thing.  Because they a beautiful beasts.  A dainty wee pudding like this, complete with curly kale and chopped, sautéed kidneys, was more than enough for a casual lunch – and, I gather, very tasty.

My only regret of pie week is this: now that it’s over, the pies are off the menu.  This is truly a tragedy, as with pie-making skill like that, the Swan should be dishing them out every damn day.

The White Swan itself is a great venue – a top-notch City boozer just off Fleet Street. 

I've eaten there a few times before and always enjoyed the food – whether it's been a lobster salad or fish and chips.  The chef clearly isn't afraid of cooking the unpopular (yet increasingly fashionable) bits we don’t like to think about – I remember that, for a long time, the bar snacks menu proudly displayed an offering of ducks hearts and livers on toast – now sadly off the menu.  The standard burger is, I am happy to say, one of the best pub burgers out there.

So if you're in the neighbourhood, pop in.  even if you can’t get a pie.

- GrubsterBoy -

Vesper Martini (Handmade Cocktail Company)

Most kids dream of finding Scaletrix cars or G.I. Joe in their Christmas stockings.  I dream of getting bottles of ready-mixed cocktails.  Luckily, this year, my dream came true.

This, ladies and gentlemen, is the Vesper, courtesy of the Handmade Cocktail Company.

If you're going to be thoroughly cynical (something I am wont to be) it's effectively nothing more than a bottle of gin, vodka and vermouth mixed together, bottled and shipped out to those gullible few who ardently believe that the whole is greater than sum of the parts – and who are happy to pay a premium for that whole.  If you're being cynical.

The problem with that analysis is that the cynic really is wrong here.  Sorry, just plain wrong.  Because this is truly lovely stuff.

The Handmade Cocktail Company's Vesper is one of the best I've had – genuinely.  With great ease and simplicity, I could be back in Christopher's – or any other high end cocktail bar for that matter – sipping at what is, without a doubt, a fantastic martini.  The ease and simplicity are factors I can't, in all honesty, ignore: all you have to do is fill a pitcher with ice, add an overly generous glug of liquor, stir (or shake, if you want to go really OO7), and pour.  Add a twist if you're feeling up the task (oh the strain!) or an olive or two if you're feeling rambunctious.

If you've watched the film (or, better still, read the book – it's the first and the best) of Casino Royale you'll know how the drink came into being.  Bond turns to a waiter and orders thus:

"Three measures of Gordon's, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it's ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?"

Brought alive in the fantastic film adaptation…

The Vesper is therefore unique in being neither a gin martini (or just 'a martini', as I’d have it if I had my way) nor a vodka martini – it's made from both.  Here they offset each other nicely – the gin shines through, but is not overpowering; the vodka gives it that slight oily texture that (in this context) works.  From its colour, I’d say that there's plenty of vermouth in there, but fear not: this is still a dry martini, without a doubt.

I've no idea what the gin or vodka – or the vermouth, for that matter – are.  And I'm not sure I care.  Bond is quite specific, true, but mixing a modern day Vesper is impossible: Gordon's is much weaker than it was (although pick up a bottle in Duty Free next time you're wandering through the terminal – Gordon's Export Strength is reputedly what it used to be), whilst Kina Lillet has ceased to exist.  There's a lot of stuff out there on the internet saying use Lillet Blanc, Kina's supposed predecessor, but be warned: close research suggests that it's actually very different.  The point of this?  Well, I guess it doesn’t much matter anymore whether the authentic ingredients are used, all that matters is this: what the Handmade Cocktail Company have put together is magic.

The Vesper – and all Handmade Cocktail Company products - is available through Master of Malt  (who appear to be the guys who also run the Times Whiskey Club – there are just too many similarities).  It seems pretty hard to get hold of elsewhere, so I'd start there if you're keen.

I'm a total convert to the Handmade Cocktail Company and its range of drinks.  I am chomping at the bit to try their Old Fashioned – will keep you all in the loop when I do.

Until then, get yourself a bottle of Vesper.  Stir over ice and serve straight up with a twist of lemon peel.  Sit back and enjoy, Mr Bond.

- GrubsterBoy -

Taverna Kouloura

I feel like I'm going on about this a lot of late, but the weather at the moment is just gross.  Time to think of happier, sunnier climes.  To the shores of Corfu we go!

GrubsterGirl and I went last year and had a very enjoyable week that largely involved lying around on the beach and eating.  Yum yum yum. 

Greek food is fantastic in hot weather (which is hardly surprising, given the blistering climate) and only really works when the sun is shining, you're sat outside (preferably within stumbling distance of the sea) and you're completely at peace.  It should be a long, slow meal of sharing plates and knick-knacks and fresh-as-a-daisy seafood and meats and cheese.  All washed down with Mythos beer or fierce retsina. 

Which is why Taverna Kouloura is such a star: it hits bull's-eye on each of those points.

Situated above a picturesque little stone harbour, with the cicadas chirping in the surrounding cypress trees and olive groves, the setting could hardly be nicer. 

The food is also incredible.  Whether its run-of-the-mill chicken souvlaki...

...the little nibbles, like tirokafteri (a kind of feta cheese and chilli dip, which they make with red rather than more popular green chillies and roasted peppers)...

(Note particularly the friend courgette crisps – once a speciality of Kouloura, these have now become ubiquitous throughout – but they're still the best where they're the original, here.)

...or baby squid cooked simply with lemon and olive oil, it can hardly be beaten. 

They also do a mean line in fresh fish, which you can select from a counter indoors and which they'll then whip up for you – simply fried or baked or served with the infamous Corfoit red sauce, it's always a winner. 

And the puddings are spectacular too.  Baklava to die for, all crisp on top and chewy inside, laced with honey and cinnamon and walnuts and pistachios.  Greek coffee comes with its own little lump of Turkish Greek delight. 

- GrubsterBoy -

Monmouth Coffee

Coffee is becoming increasingly popular. 

That sounds silly written down, and so it should: coffee is absurdly popular.  There are few things in life that large swathes of the population will readily admit to requiring to kick-start (or even get through) the day.  If you applied some of the oft repeated tropes about coffee to other drugs (and caffeine is just that, a drug) to things like alcohol or harder drugs, society would be quick to slap you with a 'problem' label.  For example, "I just can’t get out of bed without a big, strong mug of Maker's Mark" or "Getting through today's going to be a struggle – we're out of smack".  Yet we let it go on – and good thing too.

Yet it is becoming more popular – genuinely.  More and more coffee bars are springing up, independents this time, practicing an art with coffee akin to what craft pubs have been doing with beer these last few years.  More and more outlets are flogging coffee beans sourced direct from obscure producers in exotic – and, frankly, often rather dangerous-sounding – locations. 

Yet actually buying freshly roasted, top quality beans on the high street is still something of a struggle – especially since the partial collapse of Whittards.

Which is all a rather long winded way of going on to say that I just bloody love Monmouth Coffee. 

Based on the outskirts of Borough Market, Monmouth sources some of the very best coffee from around the world, roasts it and sells it to queues of caffeine junkie customers. 

The range is always spectacular.  From the Mayan Highlands of Guatemala, to the Aberdare Range of Kenya; from Brazil to Colombia; from Jamaica to Jakarta – they're not always on, but you can guarantee they'll be around sometime. 

Don’t be put off by the queue – more often than not, the mulch of people desperate to go in are waiting for the bar – which produces some mighty fine drinks, to be honest.  Scrum your way in to the bean counter and get chatting to one of the invariably helpful members of staff.  Pick what you want and tell them what it's for – whether you grind your own (good boys & girls)or use a cafetiere, a drip filter or an espresso machine, there's a special grind for each. 

They even do some special, unrefined canse sugar that is just absolutely the business - you wouldn't think it makes a difference, but trust me: it does.

But what's great is that you can taste every coffee – seriously, each and every one.  How often do you get that?  Just have a chat with your server, identify some prospects, and ask to try them.  They'll then grind you a wee scoop, put it through an even wee-er filter, and serve it up.

They even do this cool pouring thing between cups so that you can try it right away, without waiting for it to come down in temperature.

There's no denying that it's pricey.  Very pricey, for some of the beans, although there are always a few choices that come in much more pocket-friendly.  But think of it as a treat – in Chez Grubster, for instance, it's a Christmas or birthday celebration.  And you will notice the difference – of that I am completely certain.

Oh, and don’t forget – once you've got your beans, ask for a takeaway coffee – a great way of skipping the long queue!

- GrubsterBoy -